villaharta – puerto del calatraveño



Day 22: 20 km’s

Today’s reflection: Two steps forward, one step back…….



❤️ I spend the weekend in Villaharta with Jose, not doing much except staying in bed, only walking to the restaurant at the casa rural (Aguas de Villaharta-very nice) where we have reserved a lovely apartment with a wrought iron bed and a wood stove. Outside, sheep graze lazily and thick clouds move overhead. We rest, and talk, and have a bit of a laugh. Nice.

Come Monday morning, I pick up the trail again, but if I dont want to walk 40 km’s then I have no choice but to organise someone from the Bar Mirasierra in town to come and pick me up at around the halfway point and bring me back to Villaharta for the night. Tomorrow, I will go back to this point and continue on to Alcaracejos, another 20 km’s……

I dont like this…coming back. I want to be moving forward, always forward……….but sometimes you have to take a step backwards in order to be able to continue forwards.

The weather and the arrows accompany me beautifully. Today I once again feel supported, thankful.

The camino brings me into contact with olive trees, oak trees, acorns scattered along the path in front of me, infinite blue skies with clouds that dance across, joyfully framing the surprisingly green landscape, red earth, mud, pebbles and stones. I walk across a river following a pathway made of large stones, past a couple of streams, down long, straight paths and over gently sloping hills. There is a horse, a giant pig grazing on acorns under a tree, three psychopathic dogs and a strange little piglet who comes running over with the dogs, possibly experiencing some kind of identity crisis, possibly not understanding why she/he cant bark like the others, and a strange man who stops and begins to ask me strange questions (how old are you? do you have children? do you have a boyfriend? where is he? and the crowning question: are you german? heaving sigh…….). I cut off the questioning, fearing that this could degenerate and I might have to get the pepper spray out. The strange man buggers off, leaving me once again in the hands of delicious solitude.

It is a beautiful day, emotional, long. I leave some tears on the way today -tears of gratitude- because I am here, in this stunning place. Once again dipping and diving in the not knowing, in the sense of adventure, in the sense of myself as a being that moves. The mind trips over the Masters student from earlier in the year who was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer, and who I have just been informed in an email has now passed away. The promise of no life throws the life that I do have right now into sharp relief.

I am exactly where I want to be ❤️

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