Day 13: 16km
Today’s reflection: ……
“But, you are doing this alone?” count: 0
❤️ An excellent day featuring a deliciously rewarding stuff up.
The day begins with double breakfast in pinos puente in bar carlillos. Highly recommended. Diana and I walk out of town under crisp blue skies, my favourite kind. Again, it isnt long before the arrows fall away and we are dragging googlemaps out. It is a pretty easy walk to moclín, at least it should be. We walk through muddy olive groves and a conversation about our lives, where we come from, relationships, childbirth…..my walking partner is a very self sufficient woman, strong. A determined walker. We move through fields and fields of olive trees lining the dirt path that cuts its way up and around gentle hills. The arrows come and go, but it doesnt really matter as we see los olivares up ahead, where we stop for a drink in a bar. I love tapas in andalucia! Today it was fresh pisto with a tiny fried quail egg. Yum. The stuff up comes after los olivares, where we take a quite hilly circular route to the actual camino that will take us up to moclín. And girl, is it up. Up into another opportunity to walk with the idea of just. not. getting. pissed off. Or, at the very least choosing your battles.
The payoff is a stunningly well kept cemetary, more expansive landscapes with mountains off in the distance, more time spent outside, more strengthening of the legs, more happiness when we get up the mountain and into moclín. The inclines on the way up are unrelenting but doable. I work up a sweat, which gives an added edge to the satisfaction of the day, and the taste of that beer followed by that plate of lentejas. No albergue in this town, so its a casa rural tonight. After a bit, I find myself in a small, white apartment. There is a fluffy bed with white sheets. A semi hot shower.
I am really loving these evenings in relative solitude, listening to music, putting significance on different aspects of the day. Sometimes it is in a warm place, like tonight, sometimes not. I kind of like putting the special warm fluffy bits and pieces i brought with me on, and burrowing into sleepsheet, john stegmans sleeping bag, and whatever blankets happen to be lying around-a mole digging into the safety of the earth. When I am walking, the cold hasnt yet started to get under my skin. In fact, spending the day outside under a benevolent winter sun is turning out to be the absolute best. Loving that. It is a time for being a part of the landscape, being a part of the place where you are walking. It is experiencng place through the feet, legs, body. Even the rain of this season has its advantages for the walker. It has nudged me into taking a couple of rest days, slowing me down even more.
And speaking of slowing down, pink doonah awaits………….ZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz ❤️