Day 12: 19 kms
Today’s reflection: putting the arsehole/angel ratio into perspective
“But, are you walking alone?” count: 0
❤️ i sit now at the albergue in pinos puente, in front of a radiator, listening to david bowie. today was a day of many things. a day for leaving a large-ish spanish city after a bit of a reset, ready to get back to the countryside. a day for being pissed off about things i have no control over. a day for remembering that there is more to life than the things that piss me off. a day for walking under partly cloudy skies. a day warm enough as to provoke sweat. a day for walking on asphalt and past graffitied walls in the decrepit outskirts of a poor andalucian town. a solid day. not a painful day.
first, let me tell you that the signage getting out of granada truly sucks. google maps + ever so slightly cryptic online guide + sporadic arrows that i seem to just come across randomly. google takes me in the right direction but the arrows and the guide dont add up. there is a coherent thread walking away from the cathedral, but it peters out into an occasionally sputtering tap of guidance, leaving you reaching for the smartphone over and over. i find out later that a camino terrorist is afoot : there is an explanation. someone very naughty has been out changing signs because of some kind of feud between different factions of the original association that was set up to support the camino mozarabe.
i know who this terrorist is, i spoke with him a couple of days ago in granada. if you want the culebron 12-inch version of the story, listen to the recording. anyway, this is my favourite type, the spanish man with a bit of power (and no uniform). an arsehole. as if to counteract the powerful ripples in the time space continuum that this arsehole was creating for me, i also came into contact with 4 angels. 1 :4. thats not bad odds, really, is it? more than enough to compensate, if i stop and consider it. there was the guy who appeared as i was coming into pinos puente who gave me some really helpful info, enlightening me further on the camino terrorist’s modus operandi. then the woman on the street who cheerfully pointed me in the right direction for the albergue. lolo, the hospitalero here, and diana the first pilgrim that i have met walking on this camino and who i am planning on walking with tomorrow. i am pretty happy with how that all turned out, to be honest.
coming back from the (steaming hot, awesome) shower, i look at the sky and i note that the light of the day is ebbing away, and i remember that this is my favourite part of the day. the camino brought me here, to this place, and now i am going to sit and take it in.
when i started walking this morning, i knew that i was walking towards a place called pinos puente, but i had absolutely no expectation about the place except that it would probably have a lot of white houses. so, now i am here (and yes, there are a lot of white houses). i am looking at the setting sun behind the clouds, listening to the birds, a frog croaking, dogs barking…..the panoramic soundscape brings the feeling that everything was good today, including my footsteps, as plagued as they were at times by confusion.
it was a day that unfolded, leading me here, past ratios of arseholes to angels, to this sunset moment of feeling good just because i spent the whole day outside, walking. i am loving these sounds and the smell of the chimney in lolo’s house that wafts overhead, wrapping me in its comfort, getting me ready for tomorrow. i turn back to the music. bowie has stopped playing, i am now listening to groove armada, music that resonates with another moment of time in my life where things felt like they were flowing and i was absolutely loving it ❤️
PRESS PLAY for BLOW by BLOW