having taken a rest day in castro urdiales, i leave with a spring in my step, bouncing along the camino. i am looking forward to enjoying the cantabrian coastline in all its glory, on foot. it is grey, but there is no rain and it is cool, perfect for walking. this changes throughout the day, as i walk accompanied at times by blue skies, sun, and heat, and then at other times by a cold wind and a grey blanket of clouds that extends out to the horizon. i prefer to experience weather as a mysterious and unpredictable process, so, at this stage of the journey, i have given up looking at weather forecasts. what is the point? the forecast can say it will be sunny or cloudy or rainy, but in actual fact, “variable” is the key word. you must be ready for anything. when you are carrying everything on your back, the only planning you really need to do in regards to the weather is to make sure that the backpack cover and your rain gear is not buried deep in the guts of your bag. that it can be accessed without too much hassle. thinking about what the weather will be like is draining and only sets up expectations, opening the door to frustration when it turns out to be something that you are not comfortable with. the physical nature of the camino itself, today, is also varied. it weaves between the coastline and the highway~ dirt, grass, stone and mud pathways merge with the unforgiving hardness of the asphalt in sections. contact with the sound and sight of cars is balanced out, to some extent, by the rugged spaces that the camino takes me through.
i begin the day walking alone out of castro urdiales and end it walking into liendo with david and jose, two policemen from madrid. walking with them is easy for me because they are friends ~a single unit~ and even though they talk a lot with each other, being a part of a trio, means that there is a comfortable space for me to just hang back in silence, at my leisure, and do my own thing. like the camino, i weave between a soft, natural silence and hard, short bursts of conversation…….